If you use DECK BRIGHTENER, you are using a form of bleach! If you use anything with OXALIC ACID, you are using a form of bleach. If you use a sodium hydroxic and strong hydrogen peroxide mix, you're using bleach. It's not just a gallon of Clorox that has bleach.

Here's what I've learned from furniture finishers and this should apply to wood decks.

Bonding arrangements between atoms and oxidative bleaches (oxygen and chlorine base) work by disrupting a bond in which the molecules no longer produce color. OTHER BLEACHES, LIKE OXALIC ACID, are called 'reducing bleaches' & convert the colored compount to a colorless one.

Which means, BLEACHES DO NOT 'REMOVE' the color of a substance, they simply change it a to be colorless.

Sodium hydroxide opens the cellular structure of the wood (and dries it out). Add that with hydrogen peroxide and you get SODIUM HYDROPEROXIDE. It lighten and removes the natural color The downside, it destroys wood fibers. Furniture manufacturers at one time used this method to make furniture look like it was all made with the same type of wood (color was uniform). Sodium hydroxide is the first step in pulping wood, making the surface rough and dry, obviously not a good idea to use on a deck.

Chlorine bleach, like Clorox, is diluted with water. A much stronger solution is swimming pool bleach (calcium hypochlorite) and is pretty cheap.

Oxylic acid (which we use) removes certain types of stains. It removes discoloration without affecting the natural color of the wood.

Again, using a 'deck brightener' is using a form of bleach..... If you're not using a deck brightener and just using deck wash or just the water from the machine.... that's one thing...

The poll did say BLEACH and not just Clorox, didn't it? Let's re-do the poll, hon.

Linda

Actually, oxalic or citric acid application is more important for neutralizing the caustics, and bringing the total ph of the wood closer to neutral, or a bit acidic.

Brightening will actually happen on it's own, over a period of time, especially with plenty of sunshine. It's neutralizing we're really concerned with.

While all the facts you listed are great to read about, and very interesting, the reality is that today we must use what we have at our disposal to perform our jobs. There is no magic bullet. Until there are other industry accepted chemicals to restore wood, I'll have to continue using sodium hydroxide and oxalic/citric acid.

It's too bad the authors of your information didn't provide the info on other ways we can restore wood without using the chemicals mentioned.

Tony C.

A-Plus Power Washing
Riverview, MI.
Office : 734-281-5511

WWW.APLUSPOWERWASH.COM

"You Can't Get Better Than A-PLUS!!"

Linda,

Most of us use practices that are indorced by WRCLA, Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. Here's their link if you would like more info.

http://www.wrcla.org/sitemap.asp

reed

REED'S DECK AND FENCE CARE
636-397-2858
Professional Products
Professional Service
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Thanks for that website. I glanced it over and printed some pages, but 99% of our decks in this area are pressure treated. I think we've done about 3 decks in 2 years that were cedar.

Any web sites that you can recommend for pressure treated?

99% of what I do is Cedar. I have done 2 PT decks in 5 years. You can try this one. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp.../fplgtr113.htm
It is from the US Forest Products Lab.

reed

REED'S DECK AND FENCE CARE
636-397-2858
Professional Products
Professional Service
Professional Results