Bigboy

[ron]

got a couple of questions for you.
Im stetting up my chem lines to draw from 20 gal drums.
Im useing 3/8 ths line. The lines are 25 ft long from bottom of drum to the valve set-up whice will mount next to the washer.
Will i have any problems pulling the chem?
Do i need a way to prime the lines or will it pull the chem from the first time i hook it up?
When you hook the valve system up i have a left over bottom to the last T. Did you just use a small piece of hose in it and cap it off?
I know you once posted a pic of your set-up. Can you re-post or tell me where to find that pic?
Lastly i cant find clamps to hold the switch board togeter.
Im going to drill holes in a small sheet of plywood and zip tie the valves to that. Then make feet for that board and screw it to the side of the box truck. Sound OK to you?
I wish someone would sell a pre-made chem switchboard. What a pain to get all the parts. Home depot now has all the fittings but stopped selling the whole coils of hose.

 

[Larry L.]

Yes it will pull,when you fill your chemical tanks undo the chemical lines at the valves.This will force out all the air in the lines,do this all the way to the pump or intake.

Will look for the picture,it may take awhile before I find it.

I used conduct Clamps to hold the valves inplace,they come in different sizes to fit over each end of the valves,screw them to the plywood.

When you hook the valve system up i have a left over bottom to the last T. Did you just use a small piece of hose in it and cap it off?

Yes that will work or use a straight or elbow fitting on that valve.

 

[Gwas]

Ron,
I make up chem manifolds out of aluminum. About 8" by 1.5" by 1"with 4 ports drilled in the bottom. Thread these ports with 1/4" pipe thread so ball valves can be installed. Then drill one common hole on the side so whatever can get to your injector. Drill 4 screw holes on the corners for mounting. I sent one of these to a patent attorney awhile back. If you would like I could send you one. Make sure you use aluminum !!!!!!!!!!!
PS- I am not trying to sell anything but these work great...

 

[Larry L.]

O I forgot.

Your control panal valves needs to as close to the intake as you can get them.When shutting off valves the longer the line is from valve to intake the longer it will take to clear out the soap before rinsing.

gone fishing again today

 

[ron]

Gwas,Ron here. I was going to do the same thing out of PVC.
I like the idea you have and your manafold was what i was speaking about when i said "i wish some made one for sale"
I need 3 of these little buggers.
1 for upstream,1 for downstream and one for my shur-flo.
The closest ting on the market right now is the "chem spider" from e-sp but i dont like the adj flow on it.
Plus the cost. $120
Gwas i would really like to set up one board or manafold to draw chem from 5 drums and have a manafold the directed the 5 chems to 3 locations. upstream,downstream,12 volt shur-flo.
It would need to handle HF acid, be easy to replace a valve,mount in any direction and be easy to lable the use of each valve.
Im thinking a SQUARE STOCK T but up-side down.
valves to the left and right of the I part and 3 discharges on the _ part.
Why do you say aluminum and not PVC?
I could prob make a PVC one for $10.
Here is one more question.
I want to install a hard plastic chem pick-up tupe [3/8ths] into my 20 gal drums because i dont like the soft tubing.
Where would you get this tubing?

 

[ron]

im drawing out of 20 gal drums from the top, will it still pull the chem or do i have to install valves on the bottom of each drum?
Second is i ran the lines through a langth of pvc and mounted the pvc to the wall 10"above the drum height.
Am i going to have to drop the height of the pvc to the floor to get a siphon?

 

[Gwas]

No, it will draw from anywhere. Do not put valves in the drums !!! Just screen filters. I use the plastic ones because the metal ones get torn up. Put the valves on the manifold. HF acid man !!!! Aluminum stands up to that nasty stuff much better. It will tear up PVC !!!!! By the way my manifolds cost very little dough !!!! I made mine up out of scrap bar stock. Hose ??? I use 1/4 tubing !!!From the local hardware. Not the clear stuff !!!!

 

[ron]

thanks for the help

got a pic and a e-mail address?

 

[Gwas]

gwas1@attbi.com

 

[Scott Stone]

Hey Ron,
Did you think of using the manifold off of a water broom? They are usually aluminum. They are welded and threaded, and you can buy one a lot sheaper than you could just make that piece. You would need to attach the 1/4" valves to turn on and off your soaps, but that would be easy.
You might want to consider the size of the manifole and how much soap residual there would be when you change chemicals.


Scott Stone

 

[Mark]

[GLOW=red]Great Idea Scott ![/GLOW]

We have Water Brooms in stock.

 

[Gwas]

Ron,
Same concept as the H2O broom except you do not need a driver ??

 

[ron]

thanks everyone for the help

the broom idea is great put i was concerned about draw rate with 1/4 inc over the 3/8ths. The valves home depot sells are as simple as can be. The hose just push's in to the fitting.
The problem with a manafold that big is the amount of chem it takes to fill it everytime you use a diffrent chem.
The set-up i used fill's about 6" of 3/8ths line,plus the 2 ft of jumper line. Either one would need the jumper hose.
It is all hooked up and working fine.
Turns out to look just like the set-up bigboy has.
I still think that there is a market for pre-made units.

 

[Dan S]

Scott Stone .................. What the heck is a sheaper ?..........LOL

 

[Scott Stone]

It is evidence that I can type a lot faster than I can think. I should edit that to Cheaper.

Scott

 

[Larry L.]

I wish I had that problem,I think faster then I can type