30 Gal feed tank

Bill B

New Member
Came up with a 30 gallon plastic drum, which I want to set up as a feed vessel for my PWer. What is the best method for setting up discharge on bottom of drum? Simply drill hole and "glue" in plastic fitting near bottom? Or is it possible to use gasketing and thread fittings in/and out to get decent seal? Will be installing a male swivel hose fitting to outlet, to be connected to hose feed to machine.

Purpose is to insure good flow to PW in those instances where I am borderline on water supply flow.

Realize this is probably a dumb question, but am interested in what others have tried that have worked. Thanks.
 

ron

New Member
ron p

What your looking for is called a "bulk head fitting" any pressure washer supply or plumbing place should have them. Either metal or plastic.
I also suggest you buy a float valve and install it near the top.
What you are making is a large float tank to compensate for low GPM.
If it were me i would look for a 55 gal. Less chance to run low and catavait the pump. The float valve will reduce the 30 gal tank by about 5 gal.[it needs room to float.]
You should/can install a y in the line and put a valve on it to dump the water in case of cold weather or if you dont want to transport the water weight.
Also dont forget to put a check valve and water filter on the same line.
use a min of a 3/4 ID line and reduce as close to the pump head as possiable.
the cost of all the parts should be around $50 [a lot cheaper then fixing a pump]
 

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
or you could just get a metal 3/4 hose barb,heat the threads and just screw it in.
 

Scott Stone

New Member
Most tanks that Ihave seen have a 3/4 inch thread in the cap or Bung. You need to punch out the center of it, but the rest is a standard pipe thread to put a valve, or hose barb into.

Scott
 

Scott Stone

New Member
Then a bulk head fitting is your answer. I have used closed top drums in the past that I just laid on their side. If you want to leave it standing, then follow Rons advice.

Scott
 

Douglas Hicks

New Member
Make the hole no larger than required, back up the fittings with large washers , use silicone as a sealer and let it set-up. Poke a hole in the bottom, use a tee. One of the tee runs goes to the pump, the other is for the drain. Make sure the barrel is secured as the weight will be in excess of 250 pounds. After a while, the plastic barrel will probably develop a hole, keep an extra barrel around. Delco has bulk head fittings, and a float kit. I have done this for 8 years and it works just fine. I am on my third barrel.

When you want to get rid of the old barrel, just set out by the curb with a sign. "Bob, here is your barrel, pick it up before someone steals it."

Douglas Hicks
General Fire Equipment Co of Eastern Oregon, Inc
 

Bill B

New Member
Thanks to All

Wanted to follow up on this thread. Finally located a bulk head fitting locally (no luck at plumbing supply houses, but very good Hdwr store here had one). Installed at bottom of drum on straight side, and is not presently leaking. Also installed float at top. Will field test tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help. B2
 

Bill B

New Member
Ron, I filter going into the pump. Tested today and worked OK, but had too much pressure drop in 3/4 inch hose I used between tank and machine. Had a 2 foot section made up today and will test soon. Trying not to take machine out of bed of truck, but will if I need the extra head pressure.
 

ron

New Member
ron p

you are mistaken by saying you need pressure.
Your wash unit DRAWS water.
What type of washer do you have and how high is the pump mounted compared to the drum?
A direct drive cant DRAW water [vertical lift] as high as a belt drive pump.
If the pump is staving for water and you have a 3/4 inc inside diameter supply hose something else is wrong. Air leak?
i cant see your set-up but you just built a large float tank and float tanks dont have pressure.
Are you useing a reinforced supply hose? if not you may be sucking it partly closed.
Also do you leave one of the bungs loose on the drum so you dont get a vaccuume effect?
 

Bill B

New Member
Ron, thanks for the interest. Good questions.
Tank is open top. I was referring to head pressure, meaning the difference in height in the tank and the inlet to the machine. Currently about 2-3 feet - I may increase this. Don't seem to be experiencing cavitation, or sucking in hose. Belt driven, not direct.
 

tommy r

New Member
Hello

Had the same problem with my tank. The first hose was a 1 inch reninforced hose but did not supply enough water. I then went with a 1.5 inch hose and the problem was solved. My tank is an 125 gallon with a belt driven pump. The difference in price including the larger check was about 11 dollars. Go with the biggest hose you can. My pump inlet is about 18 inches above the floor of my trailer.

Tommy
 

Bill B

New Member
Upon further investigation, I determined that the largest source of pressure drop was through a 3/4" spigot that I was using. I replaced with a 3/4" plastic ball valve (straight thru port) and problem disappeared. Also checked out length of hose and diameter, but these differences were negligible compared to the valve issue.
 

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