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Belt Drive Help!!!
- Thread starter Cody
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<font color=e87400>Thanks for the reply Justin.
Like I stated in that post there is no place for a set screw on these hubs. I wish there was! I had asked the dealer about it when I purchase them & they said it would not be needed.
At this point I feel pretty sure that the problem is when I had the crankshaft machined, previously, they knocked it down a few extra thousandths beyond 1.000 inch to say 0.985 inch. I would guess that these hubs are pretty precise in their sizes & it wouldn't take much to toss one off.
Currently I think I am somewhat stuck until I can get my hands on a caliper to measure the shaft size. That may tell all, I am hoping to either be able to shim the sucker or perhaps get a smaller hub for it.
Cody</font>
Like I stated in that post there is no place for a set screw on these hubs. I wish there was! I had asked the dealer about it when I purchase them & they said it would not be needed.
At this point I feel pretty sure that the problem is when I had the crankshaft machined, previously, they knocked it down a few extra thousandths beyond 1.000 inch to say 0.985 inch. I would guess that these hubs are pretty precise in their sizes & it wouldn't take much to toss one off.
Currently I think I am somewhat stuck until I can get my hands on a caliper to measure the shaft size. That may tell all, I am hoping to either be able to shim the sucker or perhaps get a smaller hub for it.
Cody</font>
<font color=e87400>Heyya Bigboy, ya just popped in on me.
LOL,, I was real close a little earlier to saying heck with it and slapping a tack weld on it. I still may if it comes to it. I don't think a tack would hurt anything. It'd be easy enough to grind off later if need be. One thing bothers me a little though is that if the machining or perhaps the shearing of the previous keys is responsible for this then maybe the hub is not locking down from the shaft being, possibly, a little oblonged. If so I am curious if I need to worry at all about any balance issue.
It would not be much, but 3600 rpm's under the load of the pump?? Would that make it back to my crank bearings??
Cody
<b>BTW</b> Unless Honda ever put something aside from a 1" 13 - 20hp machines, it's the right size hub. Well, it's marked right anyway. 1"
I hope I am not missing something here.
18hp Honda is 1 inch
General 2021 Pump is 24mm
LOL,, I was real close a little earlier to saying heck with it and slapping a tack weld on it. I still may if it comes to it. I don't think a tack would hurt anything. It'd be easy enough to grind off later if need be. One thing bothers me a little though is that if the machining or perhaps the shearing of the previous keys is responsible for this then maybe the hub is not locking down from the shaft being, possibly, a little oblonged. If so I am curious if I need to worry at all about any balance issue.
It would not be much, but 3600 rpm's under the load of the pump?? Would that make it back to my crank bearings??
Cody
<b>BTW</b> Unless Honda ever put something aside from a 1" 13 - 20hp machines, it's the right size hub. Well, it's marked right anyway. 1"
I hope I am not missing something here.
18hp Honda is 1 inch
General 2021 Pump is 24mm
Larry L.
PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
I see nothing wrong with a tack and a wittle wobble want hurt either
,I see you still know how to fix things tho .
P.S.
I ordered a pulley once and it was to wittle and I had the hole drilled out bigger and it had a woddle,never did cause any problems.
P.S. again
friend called whileago and told me of his catch of the day,10.2 oz bass,bad part he was laughing at me b/c I had to work.
,I see you still know how to fix things tho .P.S.
I ordered a pulley once and it was to wittle and I had the hole drilled out bigger and it had a woddle,never did cause any problems.
P.S. again
friend called whileago and told me of his catch of the day,10.2 oz bass,bad
part he was laughing at me b/c I had to work.
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Mark
Moderator / Sponsor
Cody,
Before I would weld *on the crankshaft, I would try shimming the "bushing" you can cut up a soda or beer can and use the aluminum strips for shims.
Then there is always JB Weld.
(*Welding on t he crankshaft may damage crankshaft oil seal due too heat.)
Have you considered drilling the bushing and tapping it for a set screw?
Good Luck!
Before I would weld *on the crankshaft, I would try shimming the "bushing" you can cut up a soda or beer can and use the aluminum strips for shims.
Then there is always JB Weld.
(*Welding on t he crankshaft may damage crankshaft oil seal due too heat.)
Have you considered drilling the bushing and tapping it for a set screw?
Good Luck!
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<font color=e87400>Thanks guys, I just got back in, I went & got a caliper to measure the shaft & the hub. The hub on the side that is fixed is 1.01 in diameter. The shaft is 0.990. So it's only .02 out. I would think that it should be able to grab more than .02.
After a little more inspection <i>(by my brother)</i> it seems that "maybe" the pulley is a <font color=green><b>"wittle"</b></font> to big for the hub. By hand you can insert the hub to where only a 1/4 inch is left to tighten, & from what I have been told, in most cases when these hubs & pulleys are put together on a machine there is usually about 1/8th to 1/4 inch between the two. So what is normally left, according to what I have been told, is what I have to start.
<b>Mark</b> The coke can is a good one except for the fact that the gap I have isn't enough to get the alum in. That's why I was thinking about some .003 brass shim stock. I'm not sure if I could get that in either. The JB weld has crossed my mind now a couple of times. I'm just worried that if I JB it I won't be able to get it back off, being the way that it installs. I suppose that I could just cut it off but then I'd be out $XX worth of pulley & hub.
The tack weld I think may be my option. I don't think that a 1/4 inch tack would heat up the crankshaft "seal" enough to bother it any. The weld would happen about 2 inches from it. Being that the shaft is 1" in diameter & the hub/pulley would be there to help absorb the heat?? I think it'd be ok. I could very well be wrong though. I suppose I could cool the shaft prior to the weld, I don't think it would really need much for penetration to hold thus cooling it shouldn't hurt too much. A tack weld would be pretty easy to remove later with a die grinder if need be at a later date.
So as of now I am wondering should I weld it & get it on the road, or wait till monday & see if they sold me a bum hub.
Any input on my thoughts here, I'd appreciate. And like I said this machine being down is not a good thing right now, on the same hand though, I'd hate to make it worse & have to go buy a new $2500 rig one on Tuesday because I am toatlly out of time. I really need this machines volume. It's absolutely amazing how much you can miss that extra gallon & 800psi of power, it boggles my mind everytime I think about it, doens't sound like much to say it, but the extra umph is WOW!
Thanks
Cody
PS <font color=green><b>Bigboy</b></font> That's a dam big bass! And it sounds like IT COULDA BEEN YOURS
After a little more inspection <i>(by my brother)</i> it seems that "maybe" the pulley is a <font color=green><b>"wittle"</b></font> to big for the hub. By hand you can insert the hub to where only a 1/4 inch is left to tighten, & from what I have been told, in most cases when these hubs & pulleys are put together on a machine there is usually about 1/8th to 1/4 inch between the two. So what is normally left, according to what I have been told, is what I have to start.
<b>Mark</b> The coke can is a good one except for the fact that the gap I have isn't enough to get the alum in. That's why I was thinking about some .003 brass shim stock. I'm not sure if I could get that in either. The JB weld has crossed my mind now a couple of times. I'm just worried that if I JB it I won't be able to get it back off, being the way that it installs. I suppose that I could just cut it off but then I'd be out $XX worth of pulley & hub.
The tack weld I think may be my option. I don't think that a 1/4 inch tack would heat up the crankshaft "seal" enough to bother it any. The weld would happen about 2 inches from it. Being that the shaft is 1" in diameter & the hub/pulley would be there to help absorb the heat?? I think it'd be ok. I could very well be wrong though. I suppose I could cool the shaft prior to the weld, I don't think it would really need much for penetration to hold thus cooling it shouldn't hurt too much. A tack weld would be pretty easy to remove later with a die grinder if need be at a later date.
So as of now I am wondering should I weld it & get it on the road, or wait till monday & see if they sold me a bum hub.
Any input on my thoughts here, I'd appreciate. And like I said this machine being down is not a good thing right now, on the same hand though, I'd hate to make it worse & have to go buy a new $2500 rig one on Tuesday because I am toatlly out of time. I really need this machines volume. It's absolutely amazing how much you can miss that extra gallon & 800psi of power, it boggles my mind everytime I think about it, doens't sound like much to say it, but the extra umph is WOW!
Thanks
Cody
PS <font color=green><b>Bigboy</b></font> That's a dam big bass! And it sounds like IT COULDA BEEN YOURS
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<font color=e87400>There's not enough room on the hub. I suppose that I might be able to drill it through the pulley & the hub to the crankshaft, or take <font color=green><b>Bigboy's</b></font> advice I keeo on going thru to the crank to the other side of the pulley, I suppose that would definately do the trick! I don't realish the thought of drilling thru that crankshaft though, might take a couple quarts of oil to get it.
It's 4am for me now,, I'm gonna go sleep on it!
Cody
PS Thanks for moving this Mark. Don't know how I ended up putting this in Powerwashing section. One of those days I guess.
It's 4am for me now,, I'm gonna go sleep on it!
Cody
PS Thanks for moving this Mark. Don't know how I ended up putting this in Powerwashing section. One of those days I guess.
melsmobile
New Member
Buy yourself a new motor , you will save money in the long run!
Mel
Mel
Larry L.
PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
Whats a little Ouch to a guy like you,money bags.No NO I meant have the M. shop drill and thread the end of the crankshaft but the way you said will work too,need a sharp bit or 3.Or order another pulley smaller than the crank and have the M. shop size to fit,it would be flipping wobble free.
worn up anymore decks watching girls
Attachments
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John6735
Guest
.010 is alot for many sheves to take up. Bigboy has the correct answer. It is extremely common to bore the ID (inside diameter) to the correct size. Allow .002 to .005 for a proper fit.
Good Luck
John
Good Luck
John
<font color=e87400>I had this reply Posted on another forum, I just copied & pasted rather than type a new one . It may sound a little funny because of it.
The crankshaft measures 0.990
The hub/bushing measures 1.01 At the point that doesn't clamp down, outter part
So my difference is the hub is .02 greater than the crankshaft at the fixed position. I didn't think that should be enough to now allow it to tighten. On another board that I posted this someone else thinks it may. When I push the hub into the pulley, there is only about a <1/4 inch left to pull on the pulley. When I torque it to the specified torque rating it is not much more.
Thus, I am tending to agree with <font color=green><b>Bigboy</b></font> from the other thread that the pulley is bored a bit too big for the hub I have.
For now I am just going to leave it to fix on Monday. I have solved my problem of power on the rig this thing belongs on, I simply popped off one of my heaters & slapped on another 13hp honda unit & teed it together with the 13hp that's on there replacing the 18hp. I put new 5gpm tips in a surface cleaner for the task. Now, it'll have plenty of power to get a problem job completed. There runnin at 3300 psi & probably about 8.5 gpm. That oughta do the trick!
Cody.</font>
. It may sound a little funny because of it.The crankshaft measures 0.990
The hub/bushing measures 1.01 At the point that doesn't clamp down, outter part
So my difference is the hub is .02 greater than the crankshaft at the fixed position. I didn't think that should be enough to now allow it to tighten. On another board that I posted this someone else thinks it may. When I push the hub into the pulley, there is only about a <1/4 inch left to pull on the pulley. When I torque it to the specified torque rating it is not much more.
Thus, I am tending to agree with <font color=green><b>Bigboy</b></font> from the other thread that the pulley is bored a bit too big for the hub I have.
For now I am just going to leave it to fix on Monday. I have solved my problem of power on the rig this thing belongs on, I simply popped off one of my heaters & slapped on another 13hp honda unit & teed it together with the 13hp that's on there replacing the 18hp. I put new 5gpm tips in a surface cleaner for the task. Now, it'll have plenty of power to get a problem job completed. There runnin at 3300 psi & probably about 8.5 gpm. That oughta do the trick!
Cody.</font>
B.E YOUNG Sr
New Member
Cody,
Did you install two check valves so both unloaders function independantly?
Guessing that the pumps are d.d. units.
Any problems supplying them with water?
Surface cleaner must really work great with that much gpm!
Did you install two check valves so both unloaders function independantly?
Guessing that the pumps are d.d. units.
Any problems supplying them with water?
Surface cleaner must really work great with that much gpm!
<font color=e87400>OK, I got a new pulley & it works like a champ.
So.. Here's where I sit now. I suppose I may be brain fried now with mega breakdowns lately, cause' I have another little problem that I am not sure about.
Now the unloader is popping, just a little, when the unit is in bypass. <i>I have the unloader just dumping right now, it's hooked to nothing not even a hose. It's return port to the pump is capped, I normally run my return line to my tank)</i>. It's seems to run fine & smooth while spraying. -- This is the unloader that I was using on the previous pump that went to pieces on this unit.
I can't say for certian right now that I have seen this before. Perhaps I just never noticed it as I do now. This isn't normal is it? I know it's probably a dumb question for someone doing this for as long as I have been but I have never ran a belt drive, <i>seems to run alot smoother</i>, I have never not had the bypass w/o some sort of hose on it. I don't have a hose to put on it available right now to see if that makes any difference, I'm wondering if it's popping because the bypass is running so freely & with no obstructions. I usually attribute this to something leaking, lines, caps, fittings etc. Nothing is leaking. Ordinarly I'd just say Bad Unloader. But I don't recall it doing this when I ripped it down, then again when I ripped it down the pump was only firing on maybe 4 cyl's since a rod is thrown. The pump this is on is a never used 2021 General / Interpump that I've had laying around for a couple of years.
I'd guess that it's just a coincidence of timing here & that I simply have a bad unloader.
I'm not sure of which model this is, I think it may be a Hi-Tech 606 or AL607. It's an instant pressure type <i>not like the K7</i>
Cody</font>
So.. Here's where I sit now. I suppose I may be brain fried now with mega breakdowns lately, cause' I have another little problem that I am not sure about.
Now the unloader is popping, just a little, when the unit is in bypass. <i>I have the unloader just dumping right now, it's hooked to nothing not even a hose. It's return port to the pump is capped, I normally run my return line to my tank)</i>. It's seems to run fine & smooth while spraying. -- This is the unloader that I was using on the previous pump that went to pieces on this unit.
I can't say for certian right now that I have seen this before. Perhaps I just never noticed it as I do now. This isn't normal is it? I know it's probably a dumb question for someone doing this for as long as I have been but I have never ran a belt drive, <i>seems to run alot smoother</i>, I have never not had the bypass w/o some sort of hose on it. I don't have a hose to put on it available right now to see if that makes any difference, I'm wondering if it's popping because the bypass is running so freely & with no obstructions. I usually attribute this to something leaking, lines, caps, fittings etc. Nothing is leaking. Ordinarly I'd just say Bad Unloader. But I don't recall it doing this when I ripped it down, then again when I ripped it down the pump was only firing on maybe 4 cyl's since a rod is thrown. The pump this is on is a never used 2021 General / Interpump that I've had laying around for a couple of years.
I'd guess that it's just a coincidence of timing here & that I simply have a bad unloader.
I'm not sure of which model this is, I think it may be a Hi-Tech 606 or AL607. It's an instant pressure type <i>not like the K7</i>
Cody</font>
Originally posted by B.E YOUNG Sr,
Cody,
Did you install two check valves so both unloaders function independantly?
<font color=e87400>Nope, no need. Both machines are running & the "flow" is always being used thus bypass is normal.</font>
Guessing that the pumps are d.d. units.
<font color=e87400>By d.d. I suppose that you mean Direct Drive. If so Nope, my units are g.b. Gearbox</font>
Any problems supplying them with water?
<font color=e87400>Depends. I have a 325g tank mounted to draw from. but when running 3 units <i>(2 tee'd & one alone)</i> pulling 4 - 4.5gpm each if the flow isn't good it will start to beat the tank. Happened to my guys last night! Not a huge deal. They were only beating it by about 2g a minute so between starts & stops it took them 4.5 hours to beat it, then they just took lunch & let the tank refill & polished off the night.</font>
Surface cleaner must really work great with that much gpm!
<font color=e87400>Yeah, it'll do it, I use floaters so they sometimes need to be weighted a little or they'll launch if your not careful & jerk it around too quick. Then you end up looking like a ballerina doing spins til you can tame the beast