Information About Deck Cleaners

[Dan Flynn]

Does anyone have a link or links to information about the proper chemicals to uses on wood. Both versions will be fine. Bleach and wood cleaners.

I got a local contractor that builds decks. He wants to sub out the calls he gets for cleaning and sealing. He feels that all cleaners dry out the wood and they all have some sort of bleach in them. He feels the decks should be cleaned with water only.

I need to find some documentation to send this guy. Anything you can think off will be fine. I would like to look at whatever you guys can find. If you have something on your computer, you can upload it or copy and paste it to a post. I need something by tonight if possible.

If you don't want to post it publicly, send me a private message or e-mail.

Thanks.

 

[Schaeffer]

Hi Dan, This is my 2nd post to your board,

I've been ask by a local painter to prep houses for him. He wants me to only use TSP ( Tri Sodium Phosphate). This will remove the old paint residue. He allso has me use this to clean decks with.

As far as the bleach goes. I don't use it. As we all know bleach will inhibit a sealer from being absorbed and holding to the wood.

Info about TSP and Oxalic Acid can be found at:
http://www.decks.com/maintenance.shtml

I will some sources for you and all in the library.

Scott

 

[Jim Bilyeu]

Dan,

In cleaning new wood, the word "clean" means removing the mill scale. Water alone will not do this. When we do new wood, we use liquid dawn mixed with 1 1/2 pounds of oxalic acid to 5 gallons of water. This will clean the wood and open the pores for good penatration of the finish. If the wood is grayed, this will not work.

Most people who use bleach or recomend bleach either don't know about the long term effects or just don't care. As I have said before "I do not allow bleach on my jobs".

All decks will "dry out" sooner or later. The object is to slow down the drying process as much as possible to help prevent cracking, splintering, warping and cupping. Leaving a deck bare will let the moisture be saped out of it to fast causing the above conditions. By applying a good finish you will make any moisture in the wood have to escape in a gasses form therefore slowing down the drying process. The slower this moisture can escape the better it is for the wood. This not only holds true with decks but log homes, cedar homes and all exterior woods.

If the contractor is really that concerned, maby you should offer to pre-finish his decking material befor he lays it down. This is by far the best way to do it. Once he has it down, go out and wash it down with liquid dawn and call it good.

Jim Bilyeu
Exterior Woodcare

 

[Lenny Schrecengost]

I took a look at http://www.decks.com/maintenance.shtml to see what it said. They say to use 3000psi on the wood to clean it. Isn't that about twice the pressure you need?

 

[Dan Flynn]

A lot of times when you read or listen to these handyman/do it yourself shows and publications. They have a general idea of what they are talking about. I would take what you read or hear from them, with a grain of salt.

 

[Jim Bilyeu]

Gentlemen,

Why are you listening to a painter? I have not found to many painters who know anything about wood restoration. TSP will remove oxidized paint from a substrate but so will a lot of other good cleaners that are a lot better for the wood. Most of the time just a good pressure washing will do the job. As far as using TSP to clean a deck that hasn't been finished, I wouldn't do it. TSP is known for leaving a residue on the surface that could react with your finish. Using TSP on a finished deck will cut the life of the finish, it's just to harsh of a chemical. If your going to "paint" these decks or if the deck has been "painted" that's a different story.

There's two ways of restoring exterior wood, the right way (which is our way) or the wrong way (which is a painters way). If your just out for a pay check, do it the painters way. If your out to excel in the wood restoration industry, do it your way and do it right.

I also went to the web page that stated 3000 psi. That was not the only thing that I disagree with. As we all know(I hope) the pressure is measured at the tip, the further you stay away from the substrate the less pressure hitting it. One of you pressure washers should be able to figure this out. At 3000 psi tip pressure, what would be the pressure hitting the substrate at 12 inches, 18 inches and 24 inches.

The way they have it written is incomplete and misleading. It could get someone in trouble by destroying a deck. We use workable pressure at the substrate between 1200 and 1800 psi depending on what we're doing. Again, if your going to listen to a painter, good luck.

Jim Bilyeu
Exterior Woodcare

 

[Jim Bilyeu]

Sorry I forgot something. First, Dan is right in his above post. Second, bleach has nothing to do with inhibiting a finish from penetrating into the wood or a finish bonding with the substrate. Bleach can and has caused reactions with finishes causing premature failures. Bleach can burn the substrate causing uneven or splotchy appearance of the finish. Bleach will attack the lignin of the wood and cause deterioration of the surface fibers and if left unchecked, can destroy the structural integrity of the wood.

Jim Bilyeu
Exterior Woodcare